Where to stay
in China

Hotels in China are, on average, newer, cheaper and better equipped than their equivalents in Europe or North America — and there are two or three local conventions that catch visitors out entirely. This guide covers what the star ratings mean, why a budget hotel might turn you away at the desk, how the registration rule works, what a night actually costs, and which neighbourhood to book in each big city.

1. Stars, brands and what you get

• The official star rating is not a reliable signal. It is awarded on facilities — a swimming pool and a business centre — rather than on service or upkeep, and it is not always recent. Read recent reviews instead.
• Domestic brands punch above their price. The mid- and upper-tier Chinese hotel groups run genuinely good properties, often newer than the international chains next door.
• Beds are firm. Noticeably firmer than Western hotels, all the way up the price scale. Ask for an extra topper if that matters to you.
• Expect a kettle, slippers, toothbrushes and free bottled water in almost every room; expect the shower to be excellent and the bath to be rare.

2. The "we don't take foreigners" problem

• What's happening: every hotel must file guest registrations with the local police, and passports go through a different path from Chinese ID cards. Properties that have never set that up simply decline foreign passports.
• Who it affects: mostly the cheapest chains, family guesthouses and some rural stays. International chains and mid-range brands upward are fine essentially everywhere.
• How to avoid it entirely: book properties that state they accept international guests, and get it in writing at booking. In small towns, this is worth an explicit check rather than an assumption.
• If it happens at the desk: it isn't personal and arguing won't change it — the system genuinely won't accept the entry. Have a backup within walking distance, or have someone who can call ahead for you.
• The private-travel version of this problem: it doesn't exist. Every property on a designed itinerary is vetted for exactly this before you book.

3. Passport registration, explained

• In a hotel it is automatic. Reception scans your passport at check-in and files it. That's the one-minute pause at the desk — nothing to do on your side.
• In a private home or apartment rental the registration is normally your responsibility, done at the neighbourhood police station shortly after arrival. Hosts who do this regularly will walk you through it; hosts who don't are a red flag.
• Carry your passport, don't lock it in the safe. You'll need the physical document for hotel check-in, train stations and some attraction entries. Keep a photo of the data page and your visa or entry stamp on your phone as backup.
• Changing cities: each new hotel registers you again. Nothing carries over and nothing needs cancelling.
• Related reading: entry rules and the transit exemption are in the visa-free transit guide.

4. Which neighbourhood, city by city

• Beijing — stay inside or just outside the second ring: Wangfujing and Dongcheng for walking distance to the Forbidden City, or a converted hutong courtyard near the Drum Tower for atmosphere. Avoid the far-east business districts unless you're working. See Beijing in 3 days.
• Shanghai — the Bund for skyline views across the river, the Former French Concession for plane trees and low-rise charm, Jing'an for the best balance of metro access and quiet. See Shanghai in 3 days.
• Xi'an — inside the city walls, near the Bell Tower, so the Muslim Quarter and the wall are on foot (Xi'an in 2 days).
• Chengdu — around Kuanzhai Alley or the Jinli/Wuhou area for old-town evenings, or Chunxi Road for shopping and metro lines (Chengdu in 2 days).
• Guilin & Yangshuo — sleep in Yangshuo, not Guilin, and a few streets back from West Street (Guilin & Yangshuo).
• Heritage stays worth planning around: a Beijing courtyard house, a Suzhou garden villa, a Yao-village guesthouse above the Longji terraces, a Naxi courtyard in Lijiang. These are the nights people remember.

5. Booking, prices and small print

• Book the room category, not just the hotel. "City view" and "river view" can be different sides of the same building at a difference of a few dollars — and in Shanghai or Chongqing that's the whole point of the night.
• Deposits are common at check-in, refunded at check-out, and usually taken on card. Cash deposits get refunded in cash — keep the slip.
• Prices swing hard with the calendar. National holidays (early October, early May, Lunar New Year) and big trade fairs can double rates and empty the city of rooms. Midweek outside those windows is when the deals appear. See best time to visit.
• Twin vs double is worth confirming — Chinese hotels list them separately and "double" sometimes means two beds.
• Smoking floors still exist. If it matters, request a non-smoking floor explicitly rather than assuming.
• Paying: international cards are accepted at hotel front desks far more reliably than anywhere else in China — but for everything outside the hotel, set up mobile pay before you fly.